It’s day three of London Fashion Week Men’s, today’s packed schedual features even more of my favourites debuting their Autumn/Winter 201 collections.
Here’s all my highlights from day three:
One of my all time favourites has to be Berthold! Each season the brand delivers something instantly recognisable – shapes which protect the male form in simple block colours – for AW17 there’s only black, white, and burgundy hues.
Presenting a collection entitled “SHAME”, Chinese designer Ximon Lee returns to London with the aid of GQ China. Becoming increasingly recognisable for his fresh and original ideas with pattern cuts and materials, this time we see Lee using brocades, pearls and velvets to contrast with the colder elements previously seen in his shows like metal hooks, PVC and chunky leathers.
KTZ came straight out the gate swinging and not just because of the boxing’esque lace up accents running throughout the collection, alongside the classic monochromatic flow that’s become established as the brands signature colour-way, amongst an injected force of militant work wear.
The collection titled ‘Cut’N Shut’ showcased utilitarian military style garments that utilise the title quite literally. Ræburn favours function in a time of consumerist consumption, filling the runway with thick appliquéd duffle coats, khaki anorak jackets, grey woollen tracksuits, camouflage padded bomber jackets and lose fitting cropped trousers, many inspired by his remade, reduce, recycle ethos as he deconstructs and up-cycles parachutes and bomb disposal uniforms.
Knitwear was worn in chunky ruffles, along trousers seams, necks and on jumpers with such wide armholes they could be mistaken for ponchos. Broad flat caps were styled tilted to one side, enhancing the 60’s feel of the show: they were also embellished with pearl buttons, paying homage to the Pearly Kings and Queens, renowned throughout London due to their creatively decorated designs.
Taking us wayyy out of town, Martine Rose presented a collection of oversized silhouettes – reminiscent of a teenage boy boring his father’s suit. Tailoring marks new territory for the designer, who wanted to explore different male characters.