This week, Dylan Jones OBE, Chair of London Fashion Week Men’s and Caroline Rush CBE, Chief Executive British Fashion Council opened London Fashion Week Men’s as a celebration of discovery and the creative diversity that has made London an international hub for menswear. From British heritage to emerging labels and vibrant street-wear brands, the twelfth edition of the London menswear showcase pays homage to the ever expanding creativity of the capital.
Stepping away from their usual streetwear to illustrate the struggles of growing up and becoming an adult, the clothes this season seemed to be more on the side of modern Americana than your everyday “collegiate” style – but nonetheless updated with rich fabrics, like corduroy, wool and denim. For men, fall called varsity jackets, preppy chinos and a cropped jacket in red over a turtleneck; there was also a patchwork blanket reinterpreted into an all-over silk print for the men’s tracksuit.
Tourne de Transmission
Showing up to London Fashion Week Men’s with a predominantly black collection of tailored coats and asymmetrical cuts and pockets, he translated Gordon’s images of men smeared in paint and mud into a trans-seasonal line-up of skewed hems, relaxed forms and comfortable colour bursts, like the pink checked parka toward the end of the show.
This collection started off with a neutral palette of greys, white and beiges, broken up with a splash of bright yellow, but this was just the start. The pieces became brighter throughout, moving into all-over multi-coloured tie-dye suits and balaclavas, and neon-orange trousers. The use of colour – the right side of the brain – adds a fun pop to the formal feel – the left side of the brain – of each look, while clean monochrome trainers keep the eyes drawn to the outfit.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
Throughout his latest collection, appropriately called “Tantrum,” Charles Jeffrey Loverboy explored the maddening sensation of residual pent-up rage and the compulsion to scream. His Fall/Winter 2018 line-up evoked the power of pain, the hard-edged glamour of hedonism, and the continual power of performance. Equal parts performance art and runway, Charles Jeffrey’s shows are always the most thrilling to experience during fashion week; this time, it was borderline terrifying.
Cowboys hats, bright coloured coats, wide-legged trousers and checks are all essential parts of Astrid Anderson‘s collection. Fabrics and pieces flare and are oversized, nodding to the brand’s ethos – comfort, casualwear and sports-inspired. The cowboy/ Western theme can be seen in each look through the use of head accessories, pointed Western boots and checked side-stripes on tracksuit trousers and all-over printed shirts. Layers are also key, as jackets are thrown over hoodies, and short-sleeved long-line tees thrown over long-sleeve shirts.